It’s like this experience found me; it’s not something that I could have ever dreamt for myself. Every step of the journey with my sister Sue to the Philippines – Manila, Baguio City and Sagada – was breathtaking. Travelling outside of Australia for the first time, and to the ancestral lands of my grandfather Lolo Andrew Villanueva Reyes, brought a deep sense of joy.

I am deeply grateful to our knowledgeable stewards Jules Caburian, Kunaya Lopez and Dexter, who generously gave their time and energy over the nine days. They provided us with an extraordinary opportunity to immerse ourselves into the art, culture and spirituality of the Philippines. We were proud to share who we are, and our connection to the Philippines. For so long, we withheld our identity in Australia, as our achievements were recognised only as positive reflections of our Filipino upbringing and not our Indigenous heritage.

In Baguio City, I felt a sense of belonging as I looked around at the crowds – people who looked like me. Later, in Sagada, a local spoke to me in their language, assuming I was from the area, and asked for directions to a guest in the village accommodation.

To exchange our customs with friends and family through traditional foods and language was heart-warming, reminding me of our cultural gatherings as children, and highlighting the importance of family. Traditions, like our father’s sweet tooth after meals, the precise way we cut green beans, or safeguarding adobo – our family’s secret recipe – weren’t just cooking. I now see them as a way of remembering who we are. These moments brought us full circle, allowing us to honour and better understand our cultural story, and gently reminding us to pass it on to our children and grandchildren.

In Sagada, I felt a deep sadness reflecting on the disruption colonisers caused to Indigenous cultures back home. Yet, I also admired the strength and resilience of the Filipino peoples and their communities’ cultural identity. Before heading to the Philippines, I did some spiritual work related to my grandfather. His story is powerful, – abandoned by his family for failing to become a doctor, he sailed to Australia in 1905 at 19 years of age. He faced the denial of his identity, starting with the Australian government’s change of his first name, and surname from Reyes to Reys.

Exchanging cultural stories in the Philippines brought a deep sense of grief as I reflected on my dad’s struggle with identity. He was denied aspects of his Filipino heritage by his father to fit in to mainstream society in Cairns, while also facing social and political challenges in embracing his Indigenous heritage. This journey has given me a greater appreciation for my dad’s story, which is central to my current art project, The Gap In Between Spaces. The project explores cultural narratives and personal memories, using domestic and earthly metaphors to delve into identity and history. Through storytelling and symbolic abstraction, I reveal hidden layers of history beneath everyday objects and spaces. The work invites conversation about history, identity and resilience, emphasising the impact of colonial policies on Indigenous peoples and the power of cultural resilience.

I felt deeply inspired and honoured by the artisans we met on the journey, and our travel companions Gale and baby Seven, Handiong and Giul. Sitting with Kidlat Tahimik, a national treasure in the Philippines for film was a privilege. Seeing his art and cultural journey up close, through performance and his iconic film, was inspiring. He encouraged us to embrace our heritage and to use it to tell stories authentically, rather than conforming to mainstream influences like Hollywood filmmaking. Meeting the artisans of IPEACE (Indigenous Peoples Education for Arts, Culture and Empowerment) at ili-Likha Artists Village, and participating in a traditional community dance was unforgettable. I felt truly welcomed in Baguio, and comfortable – no shame – participating in the dance.

We immersed ourselves into the arts through gallery visits and a private tour with artist Kunaya and Ronald Allan de Leon walking through Baguio City’s ‘living street’, viewing their stunning murals, and meeting talented architect and artist Bong Ti Baguio in Sagada. A three day intensive workshop at Sagada Pottery House with the artisans Siegrid Bangyay, Ardeth Angway Butic, Tita Tess Baldoand Tito Marcus was a highlight. Siegrid graciously shared her deep knowledge and skills in pottery, from sourcing the earth to sculpting bowls on the wheel.

We literally got our hands, feels and clothes dirty – and loved every moment of it. We are so grateful for all the families who welcomed us into their hearts and homes – Siegrid and her husband’s 12 hour charcoaled pork, Tita Tess and Tito Marcus teaching us traditional weaving, Dexter’s mum’s fermented crab cuisine, and Kunaya’s mum’s which sadly we didn’t meet in person but enjoyed her beautiful baking daily.

I came back home feeling grounded and at peace, looking forward to where this journey takes me. We carry so many treasured memories, and are so appreciative to creative producer Jules Caburian, Kunaya Lopez, and Ashleigh Campbell, Director, Northsite Gallery. This project was supported through Regional // Regional an initiative of AsiaLink Arts at University of Melbourne, and without the support of the Regional Arts Funding Queensland – Quick Response Grant, this opportunity would not have been possible for me.

With Gratitude,

Karen Reys